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How to choose a serger (overlock machine)

Which stitches a serger needs to make for your use, and which models in our catalog fall on either side. By the end you know what to look for on a product page before you buy.

A serger does not replace a sewing machine: it finishes the edge, trims the excess fabric and seams stretch fabrics with a stitch that gives. If all you need is a clean edge finish, the choice is simple. If you sew knits or jersey, or want rolled hems and flatlock, it comes down to two things: the stitches the machine declares and how much space it takes on your table.

First question: which stitches you need

In the catalog's product pages you will find the stitches declared by the manufacturer for each model. It is the most useful piece of data and the one that changes most from model to model.

  • 3- and 4-thread overlock: the basics. These are the stitches that close and finish the edge, and most machines in the catalog declare them.
  • 2-thread overlock: useful for finishing light edges without bulk. Not every machine does it.
  • Rolled hem: the thin hem for the edges of lightweight fabrics. In the product pages it appears as 3-thread and, on some models, 2-thread as well.
  • Flatlock: the flat seam, used in sportswear and as a decorative effect.
  • Narrow 3-thread overlock: a finer alternative to the regular 3-thread stitch, designed for fine fabrics.

The rule of thumb: if finishing and closing edges is all you need, a machine with 3- and 4-thread overlock is enough. If you want rolled hem and flatlock, check that the stitch is listed on the product page, and don't take it for granted.

Four models, four types of buyer

Janome MyLock 644D (page janome-644d). It declares 2-, 3- and 4-thread overlock and nothing else: no rolled hem, no flatlock. It is for people who only want to finish and close edges. If you plan to do rolled hems, this is not the one.

Brother 1034D (page brother-1034d). 3-thread overlock, narrow 3-thread, 4-thread and 3-thread rolled hem. It goes beyond the minimum without reaching flatlock. Note: on our page the power supply is listed as 110 V and the official page is the manufacturer's US one. If you buy in Europe, make sure you get a version with the right voltage.

bernette 44 FUNLOCK (page bernette-44-funlock). It is the model with the widest list among those we have read: 2-, 3- and 4-thread overlock, narrow 3-thread, 3-thread stretch overlock, 2- and 3-thread rolled hem, 2- and 3-thread flatlock and 2-thread wrapped edge. It weighs 7.2 kg according to the page. It is for those who want to try everything with a single machine.

Pfaff admire air 5000 (page pfaff-admire-air-5000). It declares 2- and 3-thread flatlock, 2- and 3-thread rolled hem, narrow 3-thread overlock and 4-thread overlock. It weighs 7.8 kg and measures 35.1 x 28.4 x 29.9 cm. Compared with the bernette, the plain 2-thread overlock is missing from the list: neither is a clear win, it depends on which stitch you need.

Weight and footprint

A serger often stays on the table, but if you move it every time the weight makes itself felt. The Singer Heavy Duty 0460 (singer-heavy-duty-0460-serger) weighs 6.7 kg and measures 30.9 x 28.6 x 27.6 cm: it is the lightest of the models mentioned here. The Juki MO-1000 (juki-mo-1000) weighs 9 kg and measures 33 x 28 x 31 cm: it is the heaviest of the group. It declares 2-, 3- and 4-thread overlock, narrow 3-thread, 3-thread rolled hem and 3-thread flatlock.

For the Singer, the page has no stitches declared in a structured way: before choosing it, read the manufacturer's official page.

Which one to choose

  • Only finishing and closing edges: Janome MyLock 644D. It does what is needed and you don't pay for features you won't use.
  • Finishing and doing a few rolled hems: Brother 1034D, after checking the voltage of the version you buy.
  • Stretch clothing, hems and flatlock: bernette 44 FUNLOCK or Pfaff admire air 5000. Choose based on the stitch you need: the plain 2-thread is in the bernette, not in the Pfaff.
  • Wide list of stitches with 3-thread flatlock: Juki MO-1000, knowing that it weighs 9 kg.
  • Limited space and weight: Singer Heavy Duty 0460, after checking the stitches on the manufacturer's site.

What you won't find in this guide

For these machines we have no list price on the product pages, so we cannot tell you which one is best value. We have not tested them either: what you read here comes from the data declared by the manufacturers and collected in the product pages. To put two models side by side, use our comparisons, for example bernette-44-funlock-vs-brother-1034d, where the differences are listed one by one.

In all we have 14 sergers in the catalog, in the Sergers category. If none of the machines above convinces you, browse the category: there are also Alfa, Baby Lock, Elna, Husqvarna Viking, W6 Wertarbeit and a second Pfaff and Janome model.

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